Tues/Wed October 4 and 5th
On Tuesday, we decided to just spend sometime around town (Hallstadt) buying souvenirs, riding a boat around the lake, and then drive around to some of the smaller towns in the area. We got as far as Bad Ischl, Strobl, and St. Gilgen, the closest lake side town to Salzburg. None were anything special but the lakes themselves were beautiful nestled into the steep high mountains. This area has about 13 lakes which range in size from a mile across and 2-3 miles long to double or triple that size. The Hallstattsee where we stayed appears to be one of the smallest and the hardest to get to. No real motors allowed other than 2 small tour boats so the serenity is amazing…small electric boats, paddleboats, canoes, kayaks and lots of ducks and swans. Apparently the lakes are only about 50 meters above sea level and were first formed when the supercontinent Panagea was bumping around and the alps started getting pushed up. Now snow melt rivers keep them full and calm..and a bit cold!
Wednesday found us driving up to Gmunden for a quick peak at where Martine got married and then onto Mauthausen concentration camp. As with our trip to Dachau in the past, man’s inhumanity to man is unbelievable. The scenery is peaceful rolling green hills and then, in the middle, rises a crematorium smokestack. This was mainly a labor camp where political prisoners, opposing army prisoners, partisan/rebels, and jews were forced to labor up high stone steps (186 of them) from a quarry with rocks on their backs to supply stone to build the third reich monuments. Most were fed 5 tablespoons of food daily, and most died within a few months of arrival. If they fell on their trek uphill, they were simply shot. Close to 100,000 died here from 1938 till May 5, 1945 (7 days after Hitler’s death) when the camp was liberated. The prisoners continued to die for days after liberation because they were simply too far gone to save…60,000 in the last 9 months, 15,000 in the last few days. This is a powerful and moving memorial to those who died here and elsewhere in such camps, and a powerful reminder or education for the rest of us.
Off to Cesky Krumlov in the Czeck Republic after that solemn visit to Mauthausen. I was a bit worried as we drove into the Czech Republic. The first young lady was hitchhiking, I thought. Standing by the side of the road miles from anywhere. Then we passed 7-10 more nicely spaced out along the road….ohhh. Guess it is something different than a car ride they are seeking. That was very discouraging, somehow. Lots of “American Chance Casinos” and “Sin City” buildings. The iron curtain has certainly rusted away (no customs or border visible) and all the buildings are painted in bright colors. In addition, there are babies and children everywhere. In 73, the situation was so grim (no color literally or spiritually) there were no children being born – the future was too grim. What a difference. We rolled into Cesky Krumlov about 6p.m. – lovely color, lots of babies and young children…smiling laughing locals everywhere. No hookers in sight and lots of fun places to walk.
More tomorrow after we have explored.