Last days ...

BAD KITTY TUESDAY If it’s a rainy Tuesday in the Virgin Islands it must Bad Kitty Tuesday. We decided to take a chance on the weather for a full day whirl-wind trip of the major British VI close to us so here goes. Got up early and hustle down to the boat dock. Load on a nice 42’ cat and head south 40+ very bouncy (6-8 foot swells in one direction and wind at 90 degrees) miles to Spanish Town Virgin Gorda in the BVI. Customs and ashort Taxi to the Baths where huge Inca temple sized granite batholiths have been lifted, rumbled and tumbled by uplift and surf to make an amazing labyrinth of caves and swirling waves. Fun 30-40 minutes of geology and demo of waterpower. Back on the boat and start the staged trip back with Cooper Island (how about that Cooper) for lunch on the beach. Dah, sort of unnecessary to say, everything is on the beach here. And what beaches they are. Could not be whiter and water could not be more blue green. No dock, so we poor people had to jump off the boat and swim to shore for lunch , and back after lunch. Back in the boat and off to do the work of the day. 30-40 minute snorkel at the Indians at Peter island. It was somewhat better coral and fish than Buck Island off St. Croix but not a lot better. Getting the idea that if you expect shallow water coral and fish like Hawaii you are going to be disappointed. We hear the diving is great but the snorkel is less rewarding. The water is too warm and hurricanes have killed off lots of coral. Oh well, Get back in the boat and go drown our sorrows, literally, at the Soggy Dollar bar on Jost Van Dyke. Again, no dock here. Just dive off the boat and swim in, hence the name Soggy Dollar Bar. Who would have figured that making you swim in would be your bar’s main attraction. Well, not the main attraction. They make “Pain Killers” and “Soggy Man” 10 at a time and the barmaid can make them faster than a good pair of sunglasses can sink to the bottom of the deepest part of the bay. But wait, there is more. After literally hundreds of thirsty sun soaked tourists have thrashed their way in triathlon style race to the bar, nothing compares to the comical and certainly much more drama packed and dangerous return to the boat. Envision everything from pontoon to sailboat to 80-meter yachts with 30’ tenders bobbing in pristine turquoise waters. Then, a mass of rum soaked inebriates begin their return swim journey like lemmings. Just to make it interesting occasionally ones who seem to be unable to complete the flailing journey wave what left-over green they have and a rubber raft appears tied to a speedboat, at the peril of all in the surf at the time. IF the drunk can get on the mattress, the boat will pull him or her out to their boat, then the shoving and heaving and pushing of fat butts happens while trying to get them back into their boats….oh…my. I would expect the real treasure of Black Beard can be scooped from the bottom of the bay at the end of the day, if the end of the day ever comes at the Soggy Dollar. What a fun place. Good thing they leave that stop to the end of the trip. When all had returned to Bad Kitty, including the 75+ y ear old lady who did nothing else on the trip but this last event, we are off. Last trial under fire is to consume all the rum you can before you get back to US customs. Have I mentioned Kathie has acquired a liking for coconut rum and especially “pain killers” a mixture of Banana rum, coconut rum, and nutmeg ground over the top? Notice the dilution of nutmeg. Must be interesting posting for the customs agents. Not much recollection of that night, Next day, Wednesday, is off to St. Thomas and our room at the Green Iguana. It wasn’t ready for us so we rushed to the foot ferry to Water Island and spent the afternoon on Honeymoon Beach. After a walk up a steep hill, and then back down again, we found ourselves on yet one more perfect beach with bars (think rum) behind us and massive cruise ships pulling in to the piers in Charlotte Amalie. A mile away. We stayed and swam on the beach until the 6000 plus people of the cruise ship started to appear. Then, it was back to town and dinner before a nice sleep. With only one day left of vacation, we set off on Thursday to tour the island of St. Thomas. First to “Mountain Top” which we thought was a restaurant. Thought we could find breakfast there. Nope, only a fantastic view out over all the US and BVI and lots of junky souvenirs. Had to walk through the junk to see the view. Then it was off to Magens Bay, a mile wide beach deep at the end of a log horseshoe bay. Perfectly calm, decent lunch at restaurant and a long swim for me while Mark slept. Still no fish. Tried to get to one more beach, but failed and the water was too rough there for snorkeling. So, back for a shower, tour of the docks with mega yachts everywhere and dinner at Blue Beard’s castle at “Room with a View” to watch the sun set. This has been a great trip. If our phones hadn’t said we needed to catch a plane, we might have been there for longer. Lost track of time, day and ourselves pretty easily. Again, there’s that rum! Home today, see you soon!

Monday, Feb 16 I have been given the job of writing about the last 2-3 days. I am holding out for more rum. That is what the islanders did. You ask, how is it going for me? Not so good mon. Wednesday - Checked in to San Croix. In hindsight, it was very nice and a good place to start. Kathie worked so hard to stay in a nice place and if you look at Trip Advisor it is a 4+ out of 5. Lesson one, read all the reviews. We started to be in rm. 310 which was rated 5 and ended up being given 210 which as it turns out is owned by a very elderly now nursing home couple who have not been there in more than 3 years. Our “knows a lot neighbor” says everything rusts here, even the rubber and we can attest to it. Suffice it to say the room was not so good but the Island was lovely. Snorkeled off Buck Island, a protected Heritage site. Ouch. Hugo in 1989 sat on St. Croix for 18 hours and the island and the protected reef off Buck have not been the same. Coral mostly dead in the area where snorkeling was allowed and few fish... Was a great trip and chance to swim though. Friday, driving around the island. ... off to Point Udall, farthest most eastern spot of US and territories. Quick drive back to clean up and off to “Jump Up”. I understand they do it 4 times a year as a celebration of the island. Complete with Mocko Jumbies. Had a great island fusion dinner at Zion, which consisted of frozen drinks and Mahi-Mahi and after the frozen who can remember. The Jumbie are young men who climb up on 6-7 foot walls and the leader hands them up 2x3 poles with towels and long torn bed sheets to tie to their legs. Then comes the great bright costumes and as fast as you can say Jumbie they become a sort of really tall dancing mischevious spirit. They were fun. Saturday was a travel day. We had a late plane so up and able to go to Fredricksted for a few hours. Well worth it. Nice walk through what Christiansted is trying to be. Shops all full and people all out and about. Likely had a lot to do with Big boat in the harbor. Nice breakfast and and bought a few things at the market. Then on to the Whim Plantation museum (restored sugar plantation). The main house was great. Fellow at a grand piano playing Chopin and Mozart while the chandelier swayed in the breeze gently crossing the room through open windows. I can’t stress enough how the swaying of the chandelier put the whole scene in motion and transported you back to 1830. Livery/stable, dry moats around the big house, kitchen set off from the main house to protect from fire, slave quarters, sugar cane grinding mills, first horse drawn then wind mills and finally steam. What an operation. Then in 1848 the slaves stood up and in a peaceful rebellion won freedom throughout the USVI. Enjoyed the museum and as a result had to get off to the airport to catch that little mosquito plane. As it turned out wasn’t so tough. Hour late. Oh Well, It’s all good as Tony would say. I got to sit right behind the pilot at 155 MPH and 1500 feet. 20 min later we were on St. John. Trouble is, St. John was not ready for us. No Power at Thrifty rental in St. Thomas. This is a problem when no one can figure out how to use the generator and therefore power the computer to rent us a car. In the end they gave us the same car we had on St. Croix. Then it is a mad 2 hour late dash to Red Hook ferry to get over to St. John. Made it! St. Johns is all St. Croix isn’t. Clean and much more up scale. And, the room. Well Let's say I am sitting on the balcony with a Jumbie strawberry rum smoothie watching the sunset as I write this blog. First day on St. John got our feet wet, literally. Up the North side of the island to 2 beaches (Frances and Maho)for some sand and snorkel time. I guess the weather on the mainland has been producing some winds and swells here so the sand is sort of stirred up. A few fish but not what we were hoping. Second day. I think the island of St. John is trying to tell me something. First it was pouring rain today so we took some time off and read this morning. Stopped raining at 11 so went snorkeling at Trunk Bay and Maho again. Still turbulent and a disappointment. When I tried to take a picture of a fish the camera flashed, CLOSE THE BATTERY DOOR!. That may have been my second clue after the rain. Underwater camera was not only under the water but full of water. Oh well, Kathie says it was well over 10 years old. But my watch was just 3 or so. Looked at it just a little while ago and all fogged. Are the US Virgin Islands in the Bermuda triangle or is this a not so subtle message to "leave the electronic world behind, mon”. Last we are eating lunch at Ship Wreck Cafe on the other side of St. John in Corral Bay when a feral burro, I understand there about 300 on the island, walks up the road and into the restaurant and eats the flowers in the pot at the door. I swear, if the car breaks down and I start going around on the ever-present “Taxi”, that is actually a pick-up truck with benches in the back, then I may just have to accept fate and go with the flow. Even Saturday Night Live started to make sense last night or maybe it was the Strawberry smoothie with rum. :), :) Third and last day tomorrow on St. John will be an all skate. We are off on an all day snorkel/hike/sight-see to special places on the USVI and BVI. Oh and weather says 85 and sunny. Look out sunscreen here we come. z

Sleep and no dreams

Tuesday 10th. Went to sleep to the sound of at least three different tree frogs popping and tweeting musically away, like tiny xylophones with a periodic bass note. I was first trying to figure out what birds were singing at midnight! ... and trying to mimic their calls. Impossible! Woke up to sunshine and real birds singing melodically after a deep healthy sleep and then had a one hour massage. I am definitely in heaven, Off to visit old San Juan and trek through the giant 500 year old forts. Mark is planning his imaginary experience and it may appear here soon ...... We spent Wednesday trekking through Fort Morro, all six levels, and old San Juan. Hot as stink and, oh my, I do. Home for showers and dinner ant Nonna's - Italian, yum Next day we headed out for the airport, small planes and our trip to St Croix.

Aside from the red eye to Newark and just barely staying ahead of the northeastern ice storms, it's been a good first day. Touched down in San Juan Puerto Rico about 1, made it to our B&B about 2 and then set off to walk the Ocean Park neighborhood just east of old San Juan. A gated community in an urban renewal area, we walked for a few hours in this very local, non touristy area. The beach is full of locals and kite surfing, kids playing in the sand, wind and surf. Great fish tacos and Acai fruit bowl for lunch and then back for nap to try to eliminate that red eye effect. Mark then had a yoga session under the stars. I get my massage at 7:30 tomorrow morning, then it is off to explore old San Juan and the nearly 500 year old forts. Dinner at Nonna's, who can resist an Italian restaurant by that name, we cant! Excellent, will likely return tomorrow. More later!

Off to the Caribbean

Well, there were no fish to see on the Croatian Tour, so decided we needed another vacation with better snorkeling and kayaking. So, Sunday to celebrate Mark's birthday, we head to Puerto Rico for 2 days and the US Virgin Islands for another 10. Weather there is 85 degrees and raining at the moment. We can handle that, after all, we intend to be under water most of the time anyway! Hope to post some pictures while away! Kathie and Mark